Tuesday, May 12, 2009

The Illustrious World of Saffron


Considered the most precious and unique spice in the world, saffron carries with it an illustrious reputation that takes it from a mainstay in refined cuisine and traces back to ancient times. Saffron comes from the stigma of the flower Crocus Sativus, and is primarily produced in Spain, Kashmir, and Iran; their climates being conducive to crocus growth with extremely hot and dry summers and cold winters. Considering that a one ounce jar of saffron threads can set you back forty to sixty bucks, extracting saffron from the crocus flower is extremely labor intensive. Each of the bulbs are sowed by hand in late June, early July, exactly 10cm apart from one another, and then in late October each flower handpicked. They are then brought in, and the stigma, or female piece, is extracted from the flower—once again, all by hand. It takes around 85,000 flowers, each yielding three stigmas, making 400,000 total stigmas to yield just one pound of saffron.

THE HISTORY OF SAFFRON
Saffron is said to have been initially cultivated in Asia, and was first documented in Ancient Babylon and China, dating all the way back to 2600 BC. Saffron wasn’t always used as a gastronomic delicacy, the Phoenicians and the Syrians used it for medicinal purposes, the Egyptians as an aphrodisiac and in sacred ablutions, the Arabs as an anesthetic, and Homer, Ovid, and Hypocrites a
ll noted its pharmaceutical and perfumery applications. The Greeks even have a myth about the existence of the plant. It all began when a man named Crocus fell for a beautiful woman named Smilax, and after being rejected the story goes that he was so sad that he was turned into the crocus flower. Saffron was eventually carried around the world during the spice trade boom. The Arabs brought it to Spain, who adapted it to the point were it became synonymous with Spanish cuisine, it had made its appearance in desserts and breads by Medieval times, and Venice became a hub for saffron trade during the Renaissance. Saffron is so important in Spain that there is a harvest festival for it in late October in a little village in La Mancha, one of the primary production areas for saffron in the country. Children and adults have contests to see who can pluck the most stigmas out of crocus flowers the fastest, a saffron queen is named, and a paella pan over seven meters wide is used to make enough paella for upwards of fifteen hundred people.

BUYERS BEWARE!
Seeing as saffron is so dec
idedly expensive, make sure that you are buying the real thing! Saffron should only contain the stigmas from the flower, which are a deep and illuminating vermillion color. You can tell that the stamens have been added to the mix to bump up the weight when you see yellowish looking threads or even turmeric cut into it.

It is clear that this distinguished and celebrated spice carries with it a history and a permanence that is precious in cultures all over the world. With more and more people becoming educated on the spice, saffron is growing in popularity in kitchens from the home to the restaurant all around the world. Saffron can be stored from 3 to 6 months, but can last up to three years, although the intensity in flavor weakens as it ages. It is always best to buy it whole, but can also be found ground, and should be stored in a cool dry place and kept in a tight tin or jar.

COOKING WITH SAFFRON
**IMPORTANT! A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY!!**
The beauty of saffron coming in such small amounts is that you really don’t need that much for it to be a prominent role in y
our dish. Threads can be soaked in a liquid like broth, water, or wine, by crushing the threads with your fingers (if you want to be technical you can do it with a mortar and pestle), add the saffron to the liquid and soak from 5 to 20 minutes depending on the desired intensity. So, if your recipe calls for a liquid that you want flavored with saffron—this is a great way to create a new twist on an old recipe!

You can also toast the threads in a medium-hot cast iron skillet, making sure not to burn them, and then grind the threads into a powder to be used as the recipes intends. If you are making a soup or salad dressing, where the saffron will be immersed for a long period of time in liquid you sometimes crumble the threads and add it ‘raw’.

When determining how much saffron to use in cooking, remember that the saffron flavor will be stronger the second day. In general, just use a pinch in soups and stews that serve 4 to 6 people. Saffron is especially good when used in cooking seafood dishes such as bouillabaisse and paella. It is also used in risotto and other rice dishes. Try adding some to your next beef stew or tomato-based sauce, or make a wonderful marinade for fish, by adding saffron threads, garlic, and thyme to vinegar. Saffron is also used in bread and cake cooking. Use your imagination and be creative when using saffron in your cooking!

Here are some recipes to help get you started!


CHICKEN BROTH WITH SAFFRON AND PARMESAN SPINACH MATZO BALLS
Makes 8 Servings

Saffron chicken broth
6 pounds chicken wings
16 cups water
1 1/2 pounds onions, quartered
6 bay leaves
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons saffron threads
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Spinach matzo balls
4 large eggs
1 1/4 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 cup parmesan cheese, shredded
1 cup unsalted matzo meal
1 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed, squeezed dry

1 tomato, deseeded, finely diced

For saffron chicken broth:
Bring all ingredients to boil in very large pot. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover, and simmer 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Strain broth into another pot. Spoon 1/4 cup fat from top of broth and place in medium bowl; add 1/4 cup broth. Cool fat mixture and reserve for matzo balls. Remove enough meat from chicken wings to measure 1 generous cup. Finely mince chicken; reserve for matzo balls. Chill remaining broth until ready to use. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled.)

For matzo balls:
Whisk eggs, cheese, salt, and pepper into chicken fat mixture. Mix in matzo meal, then spinach and reserved minced chicken. Cover and chill until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

Bring large pot of generously salted water to boil. Using wet hands and about 2 tablespoons for each, shape matzo mixture into 16 balls; drop into boiling water. Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and simmer until tender, about 45 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer matzo balls to 13x9x2-inch dish. (Can be made 1 day ahead; chill.)

Skim any fat from top of broth; bring to simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Add cooked matzo balls; simmer until heated through, about 10 minutes. Ladle broth and 2 matzo balls into each bowl, topped with a sprinkle of diced tomatoes, and serve.

SEAFOOD RISOTTO
Makes 6 Servings

5 cups water
16 fluid ounces bottled clam juice
1 (6.5 ounce) can chopped clams, drained with juices reserved
1/4 cup butter
1 yellow onion, chopped
2 cups Arborio rice
3/4 cup white wine
1/2 teaspoon saffron
1 teaspoon dried basil
8 ounces cooked salmon
kosher salt
ground black pepper

Place water, bottled clam juice, and reserved juice from canned clams into a medium saucepan. Set over medium-high heat; bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low.

In a large pot or deep skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Stir in onion, and cook until softened, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Stir in rice, and cook, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes. Do not let rice brown. Pour in wine, and cook, stirring, until the wine is evaporated. Add 1/2 cup of simmering broth, and stir until the broth is almost all evaporated. Then add another 1/2 cup of broth. Stir in saffron and basil. Continue adding broth 1/2 cup at a time and stirring until the liquid has evaporated until the rice is almost al dente, about 20 minutes.

When the inside of the rice is slightly more firm than you desire in the final dish, stir in clams, flaked salmon, and 1/2 cup broth. Stir until the liquid evaporates. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in 1/2 cup broth, and stir vigorously. Remove from heat before the liquid has completely evaporated.

Local Food: TAKING IT TO THE TABLE!

Remember when you were a little kid, the heat of the summer had just invaded and your mom took you out to a farm in the middle of nowhere to pick the fruit of the gods...the strawberry. Why did that strawberry taste so sweet? Why is it like no strawberry you've every purchased from the supermarket?

Maybe you've seen an "Eat Local" sticker on the back of the car in front of you, or as you're walking into your favorite local restaurant, or maybe you've heard someone use the word "locavoire". All of these trendy sounding eco catch phrases are actually referring to a much more outdated idea of living. Its being concerned where your food is coming from, like what kind of pesticides and practices are being used to grow your food or raise your meat, how many miles your food had to travel to make it to your dinner table, or what kind of ingredients have been 'processed' into your food to extend its shelf life.The idea really goes beyond your dinner table and into every part of your life, buying anything that is made and available locally is a positive economic influence on your community as well as contributing to a more sustainable lifestyle.

What is the difference
between sustainable and local?

Sustainability actually includes buying local, but its also the environment the local food is grown; if its organic, if they used pesticides, hormones, or antibiotics. If its from a factory farm or not--just because you live near a Tyson chicken farm doesn't mean that you are getting healthy chickens like you would get
at the free range small organic farm further down the road that are also hormone and antibiotic free. They're just not going to compare. Local is going to begin in rings, the first one being the smallest and it begins in your own backyard. Create your own garden, grow butterfly attracting flowers, learn about new trends in 'city livestock' laws. It not only reduces energy consumption, but enriches your soil, maintains air and water quality, and inputs local money into the local economy. The next ring is your town, then your county, region, state, etc. Eating local technically means that it is bought within 100 miles of your location. Many restaurants that are members of the local food chapter must get food from within those 100 miles to qualify; but for our own personal purposes there is really no constraints.

How do I Eat Local?


As I said, your home garden is your first step. Check out my blog about my home garden at
A Chef's Home Garden. I just so happen to live in Chapel Hill, NC, a town that has been in the recent national spotlight f
or the local farm local food movements. Within 20 miles of my house there are 60 farms, 9 farmers markets, 2 co-ops, 1 creamery, 12 restaurants that are local food members, 9 local food and farm organizations, 1 ranch, and 14 CSA's (Community Supported Agriculture).It is incredible...If you're not as lucky as me your first step is going to be to find a farmers market nearby. In North Carolina we have 5 large state farmers markets distributed around the state's major metropolises. Then you have your pool of local farmers markets, roadside stands, etc. This enables farmers to make 80 to 90 cents for each dollar spent by the consumer. Plus you'd be amazed at how inexpensive plants and produce are at these kinds of places. You can also find local food at places like Whole Foods, look at the label on the produce, dairy, or meat to see if it is from a farm near you. Find out what kinds of seafood are readily available nearby. Farm raised seafood is not always bad, but seafood that has been frozen is!
My local Farmers Market in Carrboro, NC

This is an amazing website to check out to find all local foods in your area at the Eat Well Guide.

**The Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture found that a typical carrot travels 1,838 miles to your dinner table**